TALKING ABOUT JEWELRY
By Helen Beckerhoff

Emerald - Birthstone for May

Emeralds are the most precious of the beryl group - the mineral that includes aquamarine. Its name comes from the Greek ‘smaragdos’ and it is still called ‘smaragd’ in Germany today.

Ancient Romans used the word emerald to name other green stones such as green sapphire, turquoise, smithsonite, jasper, malachite and glass. Pliny, the Roman historian, said that Romans believed that emeralds ripened into their color, so gems with light patches or an overall pale color were considered immature.

Only the finest qualities are truly transparent. Often there are inclusions (liquid or gas bubbles, healing cracks and foreign crystals) in the stones. Sometimes these can only be seen with the aid of a 10x microscope. Such inclusions are not necessarily classified as faults, but are another example of nature’s fingerprints: evidence as to the genuineness of the stone as compared with synthetic and other imitations. Only when the included crystals or cavities could weaken the stone or make it appear muddy are they considered a drawback. When inclusions occur in emeralds that look like graceful branches, these identifying marks are often referred to as ‘jardin’ (garden).

The most desired color is a saturated green which is more valuable, even with inclusions, than a pale and clean quality stone. Distribution of color is often irregular so that good cutting makes the stones appear evenly colored. The luster is usually vitreous - i.e., glass-like. All emeralds are brittle and, combined with internal stresses, sensitive to pressure.

The most important deposits are in Columbia. When the Spaniards conquered the Incas in the early 16^th century, they stole all the emeralds they could find. The Incas refused to reveal the source of the emeralds and the jungle quickly covered the trails to the mines. Unfortunately, in 1555, the Spanish accidentally found one of the mines in Muzo and began mining there. Columbian emeralds are usually a pure clear green, slightly yellowish-green or bluish-green. Although there are various deposits in Brazil, Columbia’s neighbor, the colors are lighter, mostly yellow-green and they may often be free of inclusions. Since the 1950's, emerald deposits have been found in Rhodesia. Here the crystals are small, but of good quality. Most of these stones are only suitable for cutting unfaceted stone called cabochons. There are deposits in the Urals, Zambia, Tanzania, India, Pakistan, Australia and the U.S. (Conn., Me. and N.C.). Many of the deposits around the world do not produce good gem quality stones. In some mines, only 5% of production is usable for jewelry.

Because emeralds are so sensitive to knocks, the emerald cut (step cut) was developed - the four corners being truncated by facets. Clear transparent qualities are sometimes brilliant (round) cut. Turbid (unclear) stones are usually only used for cabochons or beads. Occasionally emeralds are worn in their natural crystal form - and sometimes they are engraved. Many large, included emeralds have been cut in cabochon and then carved in order to create the appearance of a deeper color.

Like sapphires, emeralds were thought to be an antidote for poisons and poisoned wounds. An emerald worn on the finger was supposed to burn at the approach of poison and to liquify the eyes of snakes who looked at it. They were recommended as amulets to ward off epilepsy in children. Hindu physicians believed emeralds whetted the appetite, brought good health and stopped demonic influences. They were also supposed to give the wearer the power to foretell the future. They will, if you believe, sharpen the wits, bring riches and power, and strengthen memory (forget about ginko).

Green is the easiest color on the eyes, and green stones, particularly emeralds, were often prescribed for eye diseases. As late as the 1700's gem engravers relieved eye strain by gazing at an emerald that they kept by their work tables. The Emerald City of Oz, where everyone wore emerald specs, drew on the ancient association of green with peace and harmony. Powdered and taken as a medicine, it was supposed to be able to prevent epilepsy and other disorders.

The two most famous emeralds are the Devonshire, a 1363.95 carat, uncut Columbian crystal given to the 6^th Duke of Devonshire by Emperor Dom Pedro 1 of Brazil in 1831. It is on permanent loan to the British Museum of Natural History. The Patricia Emerald, a 630 carat crystal is in the Natural History Museum in New York City.

Emerald is the zodiac stone for those born under the sign of Cancer.

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New Shipping Rates as of April 5, 2006 for UPS & USPS:
$ 10.00 - $ 200.00 = $ 10.00 
$ 201.00 - $ 500.00 = $12.00
$ 501.00 - $ 1500.00 = $ 15.00
$ 1501.00 - $ 2500.00 = $ 20.00
$ 2501.00 - $ 3500.00 = $ 25.00 
$ 3501.00 - $ 4500.00 = $ 30.00
$ 4501.00 - $ 5500.00 = $ 40.00
$ 5501.00 - $ 6500.00 = $ 50.00
$ 6500.00 + UP = Cost

*Due to the high volume of changes in the Sterling Silver and Gold Markets, Prices are subject to change without notice.*

 Diamonds, Gemstones, and Jewelry

People have worn and loved Jewelry, Gemstones and Diamonds for thousands of years.  Some of the oldest human remains ever found, dating back over thirty thousand years were wearing simple Jewelry adornment, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings, some bearing Gemstones and even Diamonds.  Our Gemstone and Diamond Jewelry is the best we can make.  We cut our own Gemstones and Manufacture the finest quality Gemstone and Diamond Jewelry in Vermont.  Our Jewelry starts with original design and timeless style. From there we select the appropriate Gemstone from our vast selection of natural Gemstones from around the world.   In some cases only a custom cut Gemstone from our lapidaries will do.
        Gemstones are our first love; to us nothing is as beautiful as a Perfectly Cut Gemstone mounted in a expertly made example of Fine Jewelry accented with natures own crisp White Diamond.  The word Gem is derived from the Greek word GEMMA meaning Flower or Flower Bud, reflecting the ancients appreciation of natures Gemstone perfection.  Not all Gemstones are perfect as-is when they come from the ground for jewelry making.  The art of fashioning gemstones for jewelry has been perfected over thousands of years.  Originally people were trying to improve the level of perfection found in natures Gemstones and to make them more sparkly and attractive. 
The art of Cutting Gemstones and Making Jewelry is alive and well at Stowe Gems!
        Diamonds, for instance, when found are not always perfect or even sparkly, it is the gem cutters skill that brings out the full beauty of the rough gemstone and allows the jewelry to take full advantage of natures inner gemstone beauty.  Jewelry Quality Diamonds are very difficult to cut, and that, combined with the intrinsic rarity of Diamond, has made Diamond perhaps the most treasured of Gemstones.  Diamond is legendary for its hardness, Ten on the Mohs Scales, a Diamond is actually much harder than any known natural substance.    Diamond is also potentially the most transparent substance known, there factors and Diamonds ability to take a uniquely high polish, make Diamond the most south after Gemstone for Jewelry.  The Diamonds we use in jewelry are produced in a manner sensitive to social and political conflict based on personal knowledge and/or relying on information provided by the seller.  Our Diamonds have been produced by legitimate sources of Diamonds not involved in funding conflict and in compliance with United Nations Diamond resolutions, to the best of our knowledge.
        Our Canadian Diamonds are a perfect example of non - conflict Diamonds they are from Canada’s North West Territory Diamond Mines.  These Diamonds have, as a rule, Beautiful White Color and Great Clarity.  These Diamonds are graded the same way as other Diamonds from any other Diamond Producing Region in the World.  Mounted in our Jewelry these Diamonds are Spectacular!
        We import these great Diamonds directly from the Diamond Miners and Diamond Cutters, there are no middlemen as in the traditional Diamond distribution system.  We are very excited about this new source of Diamond, as these Diamonds are supplies out side of any controlling Carte.  This means that Stowe Gems will be able to provide a steady supply of Diamond, as supplies are controlled and restricted even more in
the future.   Diamonds, Gemstones and Jewelry, its what Stowe Gems is all about!

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Garnet, the January birth stone, and Vermont’s official gemstone is a name that comes from the Latin for grain, because of the shape of its rounded crystals. In gemology books you will find references to ‘the garnet group’, which sounds like some sort of business consortium; however it means gems with different colors, but a similar chemical composition.

Almandine garnets got their name from a town in Asia Minor and are red with a violet tint. Pyrope, (from the Greek meaning fiery), is bright red with a brown tint and was the fashion stone of the 18^th and 19^th centuries. Just to confuse you a little bit, there is a rose-red or pale violet type of pyrope called Rhodolite (the only one of the garnet group that is doubly refractive- more about that at another time). In addition to other places in the world, deposits have been found in North Carolina. .

Aaand, just when you thought you had read more than you wanted to know about this gem, along comes - ta-da- green garnet. There are three members of the garnet group that are green in color: Grossular, from the Latin for gooseberry, has only been found in gem quality since the 1960's; Uvarovite, named after a Russian statesman, and demantoid garnet (diamond-like luster), the most valuable garnet, also called Tsavorite. This is the name that Tiffany gave in 1974 to this garnet that is found in Tsavo park in Kenya. It is harder than emerald and less included, but finding material that can produce sizes of 2 or 3 carats is extremely rare.

Take a look at those little round conglomerate bits and pieces in Gold Brook in Stowe the next time you are up to your knees there panning for gold. They contain garnet crystals. Do collect them as a curiosity, but don’t think for a minute that they will be any more valuable than shares in the Brooklyn Bridge.

Garnets bestow energy, courage, and power. Widows wear it in Italy because it is supposed to help them find ‘consolation’ (another husband). It is the stone for the constellation Scorpio.

Remember that hardness is a relative term. On a scale (Mohs) of 1 - 10, sapphires are 9, diamonds are 10,. but in reality they are 14 times harder than sapphires. There are ten minerals listed on the standard hardness scale: each one can scratch the previous one. Stones that are 1 and 2 are considered soft, 3 - 6 are medium, and over 6 they are hard. Those minerals that have a hardness of less than 7 can be damaged by dust - (quartz particles 7). Such stones should be prevented from being in contact with scratching objects. So don’t throw your jewelry into your box without protecting it. Treat your jewelry with care. Keep it safe, keep it clean, and wear it with joy.